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a lust for lattes rules
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a lust for lattes rules
Clad in lululemon pants, sneakers and camouflage ball cap, Dayna Fradett casually locks up her bike, pops off its removable basket and, with her yoga mat in its forest-green carrying case slung over her shoulder, saunters into Broadview Espresso.
The shop has been open less than 24 hours,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], but this customer knows just what to do: order a soy latte, put it in its little brown paper sleeve,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], put on the lid,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], pay $3.75,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and smooth out of there -- until I stop her. She seems a bit shocked that anyone would want to do a story about this moment, to her so natural, so inevitable.
From the looks of the lunch coffee rush yesterday -- the first day for Broadview Espresso, at 817 Broadview,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], at the corner of Pretoria Avenue two blocks north of the Danforth-- there is a whole class, a whole generation, a whole social stratum of people just waiting to beat down its door and buy a cup of coffee.
Like many parts of Toronto, this neighbourhood has swung upscale much more quickly than its retail strip. Amid dry cleaners and corner stores, 817 Broadview was a porn shop until 10 months ago.
Jonathan Kay,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], our editorial page editor,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], who lives nearby, wrote in a comment piece last fall that he was likely the only one who mourned the porn shop's passing (because of its ''singularly authentic note of gritty urban realism''),[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], but he's not quite right: Mike Cullen,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], the Victoria native who owns Broadview Espresso, says one other guy accosted him during the five months it took to renovate this spot.
"He was wearing a bandana, no shirt," recalls Mr. Cullen. "He came up and shouted, 'Where's the porn?!' I told him, 'I'm going to sell coffee now,' and he said, 'Coffee? Ah,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], man, that'll never work!' and stormed off."
But it may work. These days, people can get porn on the Internet, but not coffee. And Broadview Espresso offers comforts, too: a long counter in richly lacquered particle board, a tile floor that looks like mahogany, art deco lighting, walls painted in Arabian Dark and Cafe Creme (the actual paint colours).
"It's so cute, I like it," says Paula Murray,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], an interior designer who works at Rowlands Associates across the street. She used to get her coffee at McDonald's and vows, "I'm going to get my coffee here every morning now."
Mr. Cullen started in the food business at age 14, washing dishes in a seafood restaurant in Victoria; the lure of anonymity drew him to Toronto, where he waited tables for five years at Canoe. He lived at Yonge and St. Clair, and Yonge and Eglinton. Then one day he stepped off the subway at Broadview, and felt at home.
During time in Italy, Mr. Cullen says, he gained an affinity for good coffee, and wanted to share that love. One afternoon, walking from his Broadview apartment to his waiter job at Globe, he spotted the "for lease" sign in the porn shop window. He jumped. "I just said,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], 'Oh my God,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], this is the one,' " he says. "I have no money in my family. It's been years of pocketing money."
David Rodrigues, a fellow waiter Mr. Cullen knows from Canoe, built this shop in his spare time. Mr. Cullen found Classic Gourmet Coffee in Concord, whose owner, a purist, roasts beans in stainless-steel equipment.
"You walk in there and it looks like a winery,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]," says Mr. Cullen, and he carries the metaphor to his coffee: "It's like drinking a scotch or a nice glass of wine, except I don't get drunk off it, I just get high."
I ordered an Americano, a drink Mr. Cullen prepares carefully: He does not pack down the coffee as much as for an espresso. Then, as the water flows through his Elektra Compact espresso maker into the cup,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], he watches, and stops it when the water flows clearer, and then tops up the cup with fresh hot water.
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