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British shoemakers find their feet-spun4 |
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British shoemakers find their feet
When Little started making shoes in 1997 he sought the help of Northamptonshire craftsmen. The area continues to be one's heart of British shoe-making since the 15th century, and over time has been a source of these 'simple, honest' shoes for everyone from the country's troops to its Royal family. But what Little found was an industry beleaguered by a national decline in manufacturing. Based on the British Footwear Association,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], in the 20 years preceding Little's arrival in Northampton, employment in footwear manufacturing had dropped by nearly 60 per cent.
Among the firms that Little caused was Grenson, founded in 1886 by William Green,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and considered one of the true 'establishment' shoe brands. Still, 'it was tired, had lost its way coupled with terrible designs,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych],' Little recalls. Having been an employee in advertising,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Little brought a flare for branding and a more fashionable eye towards the makers of traditional country brogues. He became Grenson's creative director in 2004,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], just like the trend for 'heritage' brands started to take root in men's fashion.
Today Grenson is one kind of a little number of Northamptonshire-based shoemakers who're more than mere survivors of the industry in crisis. In many cases they're testimonials, having consolidated their positions as makers of a few of the finest (predominantly men's) shoes in the world. The revival of authentic British-made brogues has played a significant role to keep the factories full. Venerable names including Tricker's,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Church's and Crockett Jones have carved out a distinct segment on their own at the very top end from the international shoe market. 'We are stronger than Ten years ago,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych],' Little says. 'The best factories and brands have survived.'
Grenson produces three ranges, two of them produced from start to finish in its Northampton factory, where it employs 50 people. Shoes start at £250 and increase to £440 for its GO range. Its lower-price G2 range is manufactured in India (from £175) and makes up about about two thirds of company sales. As well as making its brand shoes,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Grenson has collaborated with companies for example Barbour, Albam and Rag Bone.
Collaboration has additionally been key to the renewed success of the 130-year-old company NPS Shoes, making boots for the fire brigade,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and also at some point made Dr Martens. Within the last three years it's caused the online retailer Asos. 'The men who get yourself a dvd shoes understand what they're looking for,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych],' Oliver Tezcan,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Asos's buying manager for shoes,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], explains. 'They appreciate expensive details such as a Goodyear welt [a high-end construction method].' Sales have raised 500 percent since the line was launched 3 years ago. Because of the volume of orders, Asos sell these shoes for about £150. This collaboration, and the other with the British youth clothing brand Jack Wills,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], have contributed to NPS's 20 percent increase in output despite the global economic downturn. Its owner,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Ivor Tilley,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], who bought the first kind cooperative in 2006, continues to be in a position to create 10 new jobs within this time. Ironically, it's not lack of demand or the whims of favor which are the biggest threat to the Northampton shoemakers.
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